Once Upon A Time x Claudia Li

New York Fashion Week 2022

Over the past week, I had the pleasure of being invited to Claudia Li’s “Once Upon A Time” runway show in Tribeca.

 

Inspired by her Chinese heritage, Li electrified Manhattan runways with a new and innovative approach to how we think about cuts and fabrics in motion. From iridescent silhouettes to thick, structured textiles—Li provides a wide range of femininity and even challenges the way we think of emotions through fashion. Quite frankly, I believe Li let her creativity loose in this collection, respectfully, in the name of her grandmother.

This presentation was held at the beautiful Spring Studios, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city.

Curse of the Golden Flower

 

A 2006 famous Chinese film tied up in war and love affairs—Curse of the Golden Flower is a story about an emperor and an empowerees seeking to kill each other despite their marriage. One prominent reason is because the empowerees is having a love affair with the emperor’s first son.

In this film, the emperor attempts to have his wife killed with the extract from a Persian flower that slowly turns a person insane before ultimately resulting in death. This film is made up of striking fashion in colors of Chinese reds, potent yellows, and leafy greens—much like Li’s ready-to-wear collection.

Much like the film, this spring collection exudes an undeniable elegance, particularly from the Tang Dynasty Era in Chinese history. This collection, titled, Once Upon A Time, is said to also allude to memories from Li’s childhood, when her grandmother would tell her ancient Chinese stories before bedtime. So, we can see Li’s intention to not only honor her roots, but also usher in these themes to modern-day fashion.

Meeting the eye at first sight are simplistic textures with complex folds, and sometimes patterns. Almost all her pieces hold a level of androgyny, while still carrying heavy influences of “the woman.” Through this collection, Li disfigures the typical slim fits and shapes that we usually associate with femininity by designing pieces with broad shoulders, high collars, and playing up strong illusions to fashion also serving a function. However, we would also see these same pieces with waist accentuations and side-boob cutouts, clearly defining the female body. One juxtaposition I really like is how she takes tough fabrics and pairs them with soft colors or semi-pleaded skirts that hold a gentle and conservative form. Contrastingly, she also takes bold colors—like forest green or even black—and designs them in light and flowy fabrics, alluding to both strength and delicacy. Li’s curiosity and need to redefine femininity for herself led to a truly groundbreaking moment in fashion. I would love to see this newly pioneered style not only sustain, but also continue to break through barriers in the fashion world.

This show begins with light pink floral prints in traditional floor-length ensembles. She then moves into a more fun and youthful floral print, made up of electric blues, yellows, and blush pinks. I really enjoyed the close-toed fur slides sported at this time (definitely grabbing a pair!). Next came, what I call, the schoolgirl era, with folded cardigans, knee-high socks, and stylish saddle shoes. I greatly appreciated seeing these designs on runway. We then move into a more sophisticated black and green series. I love how Li takes us through time as we experience of an evolving style; her ability to tell stories through a fashion collection is extremely fascinating. These ensembles really began to promote mobility through soft and flowy materials, despite being more serious in tone. At this time we also begin to see Li draping outfits in the famous Chinese knots, as if to say “THIS is mine.” The show then turns into sharp reds in very structured garments before moving back into floral prints. This time, however, we are excited with a bright yellow floral pattern where she masters the art of layering. Li brings us to the end of the collection with three fully-evolved representations:

  1. An all-black Hanfu inspired ensemble

  2. An all white angelic dress with side-boob cutouts and a traditional Chinese knot throw

  3. A Chinese red finish shear skirt suit

I am most proud of the way Li takes the uninvited emotions within the feminine experience, like war, and power, and the need to be tended to, and integrates these themes into the colors, textures, and overall production of the show.

Speaking of production—the music selection of this show was unbelievable! They did a great job of creating a storytelling atmosphere through sound and light management, provoking an overall stimulating experience in relation to the pieces. There were moments of stillness promoted through more calm and thought-provoking sonics. This really aided the audience into focusing on the detailing of the clothes and only the characteristics you can notice in person. There were also times of high energy, which spoke to the theme of fashion week overall and the go-getter mentality, which is most of the people’s background in that room. Through the highs and lows of it all, the sonic choices really helped create pathos between us, the viewers, and how we relate to the items being presented. * chef’s kiss *

The model selection was also beyond perfect for this presentation. Though she casted a diverse group of models, you can tell these women were not picked simply to meet a diversity quota. Each figure held a natural aura and aesthetic that naturally aligned with the Claudia Li brand. You could see the art of it in their eyes. & Though they came from various cultures and backgrounds, this inexplicable embodiment carried out by all of these women created a very harmonious performance. I can genuinely say, that this was probably the first time I’ve seen models truly transcend the art in modern-day fashion. & the best part of it this compliment is that there were no theatrics. Each walk was standard, but the way they carried themselves through the garments was truly beautiful; in that moment, they mastered what it means to be a vessel.

Throughout the entire show, I remember feeling physical responses to this exquisite presentation. At times I felt so delicate that someone would touch my chest and leave a bruise; other times, I became soldier-like and ready for a revolution. But what I realized is that Claudia Li creates for the creative. She makes it so that your story is literally worn on your sleeve through the items your are attracted to. A true and timeless brilliance.

For more information on how to shop these pieces, please visit claudia-li.com. I want to thank the Claudia Li team for having me and presenting an amazing show. I look forward to the future of this brand.

Until next time~

Ciao. xx

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